Ways to save on plant purchases
You could pay full price at prime planting time like the majority of gardening consumers, or you could pay half or less with some bargain-sniffing strategies. Start by looking for markdowns on overstocked, out-of-bloom or past-prime plants. These are often perfectly healthy… just not attractive enough to fetch top dollar.
Four top savers: perennials relegated to a bargain rack after they’ve finished blooming for the season; annuals and vegetables that are still viable but unsold after the spring rush; trees and shrubs that are misshapen markdowns but fixable via pruning and patience; and tulips, daffodils and other spring-blooming bulbs that are often 50 percent off when unsold but still plantable by the end of October.
If you shop local, get on your favorite garden center’s loyalty program. These offer discounts, coupons, rewards and special sales to regular customers. While you’re at it, let local garden-center managers know you’re interested in plants they want to clear out. You might get a call before plants go on the clearance rack — and maybe even year-end freebies.
Bargains are sometimes possible through mail-order and online vendors, but expect the plants to be small and “bare root” — i.e., shipped with weight-saving packing material around the roots instead of soil. Coddle them in a pot for a year to maximize success.
Plant bargains also can be found from unconventional sources, including plant societies, Master Gardeners, libraries, public gardens, farmers markets, schools and garden clubs — all of which often hold plant-sale fundraisers using divisions from members’ yards, locally started seedlings and discounted greenhouse transplants.
Landscape companies are another overlooked plant resource. Landscapers routinely dig up healthy plants during renovations simply because they’ve outgrown the space or a new homeowner doesn’t like them. Landscapers might let you salvage their dig-outs before they go to a dump.
Ways to trim the plant budget
Wherever you buy plants, opt for less-expensive smaller sizes. Given patience and good growing conditions, a quart-sized perennial will end up at the same mature size as a gallon-sized one but at a significantly lower starting price.
Leaning small especially saves on trees, which can double in price for just 2 or 3 feet of additional height. Research has found that smaller transplant sizes usually establish faster and catch up to their bigger brethren within a few years.
Starting new plants from seed yields way more plants to the dollar than transplants. Vegetables and annual flowers are fairly easy to start from seed inside in winter. Basic workshop lights with fluorescent tubes are sufficient for growing seedlings, which usually need only about six weeks of inside growth before being ready to plant outdoors.
Even less expensive is planting seeds directly in the ground outside, bypassing the need for lights, pots, potting mix and such. (See tnmagazine.org for more on how to direct-seed plants.)
A third plant budget-stretcher is mining your own plants for expansion. Most perennial flowers can be dug and divided into fist-sized pieces after several years of growth, giving you free plants to use elsewhere.
Clumps of spring bulbs also can be dug and divided after their foliage browns in spring, and some shrubs will yield newbies if their “suckers” (roots that send up shoots) are dug and transplanted. Virginia sweetspire, summersweet, hydrangea, diervilla, kerria, lilac, bayberry, sweetshrub, sweetbox and forsythia are good sucker-transplant candidates.
Check with friends and neighbors to see if they’d like to trade divisions, which can yield free new varieties for your yard. New shrubs, trees, roses and evergreens can be created by snipping 4-to 6-inch pieces off the tips of “mother plants” and sticking them into moist potting mix. That induces roots to grow from the buried cut ends, giving you a new “baby” copy of the plant.
This works for many annual flowers and tropicals, too. (Visit tnmagazine.org to learn how to start new plants from cuttings.)
If you’re spending too much on annual flowers (the ones planted anew each spring), save money by converting space to perennials (plants that come back year after year). Limit those $6 annuals to pots, hanging baskets and window boxes. Perennials cost more upfront and don’t bloom as long as annuals, but the payback is usually three years or less. Some annuals such as ageratum, celosia and cosmos are good at “self-seeding,” meaning they come up on their own each spring from seed dropped by last year’s flowers.
Save on your potted-plant budget by starting with fewer plants each season. With patience, pots of fewer premium-priced potted annuals will fill in eventually and cost less than tightly packed ones.
Another pot option is scavenging the yard for perennial flowers that you can dig and divide to use in pots. The best are ones with colorful foliage that add interest beyond the few weeks they’re in flower such as coralbells, hosta, golden sedge, variegated liriope and ferns. Return the perennials to the ground in fall to overwinter and mine again next year.
Ways to save on gardening products
The fastest way to save on gardening products is to cut out things that you — and your plants — really don’t need.
Some possibilities: wound dressings for pruned trees (not necessary and sometimes counterproductive), leaf shine (a soft, damp cloth with diluted soap cleans dusty houseplant leaves), compost activator (a few shovelfuls of finished compost or soil adds decomposition microbes) and tree fertilizer spikes (trees usually get the nutrients they need from soil, decomposing mulch and fertilizer on the surrounding lawn).
Next is reducing the amount of fertilizer you use in general. Plants take up only the nutrients they need. Adding more doesn’t make them grow bigger or better, is another expense and can be polluting. If plants are growing well, there’s usually no need to add anything. If they’re not, a soil test will tell if lack of nutrition is a culprit — along with exactly what nutrients are needed and in what amounts. Extension offices and many garden centers offer inexpensive do-it-yourself soil-test kits to help you spend fertilizer dollars wisely.
Bug and disease sprays are another potential cost-saver. Some gardeners routinely use pesticides “just in case,” both wasting money and potentially killing beneficial insects that would’ve controlled pest bugs naturally (and at no charge). Most bugs and diseases target only specific plants, and much of the damage is temporary or cosmetic anyway. Consider products only when particular plants are under threat from intolerable or potentially fatal damage — and when there are no better alternatives.
Expensive potting mix can be stretched by mixing your own from bulk ingredients or by “refreshing” last year’s saved mix with half new mix (assuming last year’s mix wasn’t bug- or disease-ridden).
Even costly hardscaping materials such as bricks, stone, patio furniture, garden ornaments and fencing are sometimes available for free or heavily discounted from neighbors advertising them through local social media channels.